Polenta with Mushroom Ragú

Is polenta hard to make? Are people intimidated by corn gruel? I’m not sure why polenta might have a reputation as the difficult member of the Italian starch family, but it’s really no more complicated than pasta, and certainly less finicky than risotto. Though there are many techniques in polenta cookery, from Mark Bittman’s slurry method to Zuni Café’s double-boiler method, I really don’t think it has to be that complicated. After all, polenta is not all that different from grits. It’s just cornmeal.

That’s not to say that one should not keep certain things in mind. I of course stay away from instant varieties, and go straight for the bulk section of Whole Foods, where stone ground polenta costs less than two dollars a pound. I would think that standard cornmeal is ground too finely for use as polenta, but I’ve used it before in emergency situations. When using 1 cup of cornmeal, I bring 5 cups of salted water to a boil and add the polenta in a thin stream, whisking as I do so. After that, it should be held at a low simmer for 30-45 minutes and whisked every five minutes or so. I’ve never had any problem with lumps. After about 30 minutes, I start tasting for salt and consistency. I usually have to add a bit more water and a bit more salt. I like it on the runny side, and like the grains to retain a bit of a bite.

Another thing I’ve learned is that adding a bit of mascarpone to polenta turns it into something magical. I never really understood mascarpone until I started buying the version by Vermont Butter and Cream. This stuff is amazing in all applications, but a few dollops stirred into polenta is nearly transporting. I’m sure imported versions are similarly delectable, but I’ve had several bad domestic mascarpones. It’s also nice to use a local product whenever possible, and I prefer to think of anything from New England as local enough. They generally do amazing things with dairy in Vermont, but that will have to be a topic for another day. As for polenta toppings, any thick sauce will do, but I devised a mushroom ragú with shallots, tomatoes, and a carrot. Click below for the recipe.

For the polenta
1 cup polenta
5 cups water
1 tsp salt (plus more to taste)
¼ cup mascarpone

For the mushroom ragú
12 to 16 oz crimini (baby bella) mushrooms
3 medium shallots, chopped
1 carrot, diced
2 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
1-14 oz can diced tomatoes
2 tablespoons olive oil
Salt
Pepper
Parmigiano reggiano
1 tsp dried thyme
Pinch dried rosemary
Pinch red pepper flakes

1.    Bring 5 cups water and 1 tsp salt to a boil in a heavy-bottomed saucepan (I used my Dutch oven).
2.    Meanwhile, add olive oil to a sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add the shallots and a pinch of salt. After a few minutes, add the carrot, thyme, rosemary, and red pepper flakes (careful, red pepper flakes are quite potent when added at this stage). When the vegetables have softened, add the garlic and stir for 30 seconds before adding the mushrooms. Turn the heat up to high and let them sit for a few minutes before stirring. Add another pinch of salt and continue stirring every few minutes until the mushrooms have softened. Then, add the tomatoes with juice and simmer over medium-high heat until the liquid has reduced and the sauce has thickened. At that point, cover and wait until the polenta is ready.
3.    Meanwhile, add 1 cup polenta to your boiling water in a steady stream. Begin whisking as you add the polenta and then let simmer for 30-45 minutes. Taste for salt. Add more water if it becomes too thick (I prefer polenta on the goopy side!). Once it’s ready, add the mascarpone and ladle it into bowls. Spoon the ragú on top and finish with grated parmigiano.